Pittenweem

East Neuk of Fife · Scotland

Pittenweem still lands fish commercially, which gives it a rougher, busier edge than its neighbours — and it has become the East Neuk's arts capital, with galleries and open studios woven through the wynds above the harbour.

The first week of August is the Pittenweem Arts Festival, when a hundred-odd venues — front rooms, net lofts, church halls — open to visitors. Accommodation anywhere in the East Neuk is scarce that week, so book months ahead or stay along the coast and take the bus in.

Outside festival week the village rewards wandering. The West Shore has the best of the pantiled cottages, St Fillan's Cave sits up a narrow stair off Cove Wynd, and the harbour is at its most alive early morning when the boats come in.

It's the most practical base if you want a self-catering cottage rather than a hotel: the village has more holiday lets than rooms, and the coast path puts St Monans and Anstruther within half an hour either way.