Liverpool in a day: Royal Albert Dock, two cathedrals and the Cavern

Liverpool's story is written along its river. The docks made it one of the great ports of the world; the waterfront still shows off that confidence; and a short walk inland, the city's two cathedrals and its most famous music cellar tell the rest of the tale. This is a day that starts at the water's edge and climbs up through the city, and it works on foot from start to finish.

Morning: Royal Albert Dock

Start where Liverpool's maritime wealth is most obvious. The Royal Albert Dock was designed by Jesse Hartley and Philip Hardwick and opened by Prince Albert in 1846. It was the first structure in the UK built from cast iron, brick and stone with no wood in its structural elements, which made it the world's first non-combustible warehouse system.

The dock's later history is just as telling. It closed in 1972 and lay derelict before reopening in 1984, with an official reopening in 1988. Its five warehouses now form the largest group of Grade I listed buildings in the UK, and it gained the "Royal" prefix in 2018. Today it's home to the Merseyside Maritime Museum and The Beatles Story, along with plenty of places to stop for coffee.

Walk the quaysides slowly, then cut across to neighbouring Salthouse Dock for a different angle on the brick-and-iron warehouses reflected in the water.

Late morning: the Museum of Liverpool and the Pier Head

A short stroll north along the Liverpool Waterfront brings you to the Museum of Liverpool at Mann Island, Pier Head. Designed by the Danish architects 3XN, it opened in June 2011 and entry is free.

If you only have an hour here, this is where we'd spend it. The museum tells the city's own story, from its sporting and creative history to its LGBTQ+ collections. For music fans, one exhibit stands out: the stage on which John Lennon and Paul McCartney first met. There's also the steam locomotive Lion, moved here from Manchester.

Back outside, the Pier Head is the place for the classic waterfront view. On the way, look out for the Memorial to the Heroes of the Marine Engine Room and the Sir Alfred Lewis Jones Memorial. If you want the view from above, the Royal Liver Building has a rooftop experience, Royal Liver Building 360.

Lunch: Liverpool ONE and around

Turn inland towards Liverpool ONE, the route between the dock and the city centre, and Chavasse Park makes a good place to pause before the afternoon's walk. For lunch nearby, Hardware Coffee + Kitchen and Core Coffee & Kitchen are on our shortlist, or for something more substantial, Elif Castle Street and Dale Street Kitchen & Bar.

Afternoon: a tale of two cathedrals

Liverpool has two cathedrals, about half a mile apart at either end of Hope Street, and they couldn't be more different. Seeing both on the same afternoon is one of the best things you can do in the city.

Start with Liverpool Cathedral, the Anglican cathedral designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott. It took most of the 20th century to build, from 1904 to 1978, and it's the largest religious building in Britain and the longest cathedral anywhere. Its tower stands about 101 metres tall, and its bell chamber holds the world's highest and heaviest ringing peal. You can pay to climb the tower, though it closes in severe or windy weather or when events block access, so have a backup plan.

Then walk the length of Hope Street to the Liverpool Metropolitan Cathedral, the Roman Catholic Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ the King. Sir Frederick Gibberd won a worldwide competition with his design, and the building was consecrated in 1967. It's circular, with the altar at its centre so the whole congregation can see it, and above the altar is the 16-sided lantern known as the Crown of Glass, designed by John Piper and Patrick Reyntiens. Locals call the building "Paddy's Wigwam". Below it lies the only part built to Sir Edwin Lutyens' much grander earlier design: the crypt.

Our verdict on the two? The Anglican cathedral wins for sheer scale. The Metropolitan wins for the moment you step inside and the coloured light lands on the floor. You need both.

Evening: down into the Cavern

End the day where Liverpool's other great export was born. The Cavern Club on Mathew Street opened on 16 January 1957 as a jazz club. The Beatles first played there on 9 February 1961 and went on to make 292 appearances between 1961 and 1963. Brian Epstein first saw them perform at the club on 9 November 1961, and the rest is history.

The club you visit today isn't quite the original. It closed on 28 May 1973 and the cellar was filled in during construction of the Merseyrail underground loop. It reopened in 1984 in a reconstruction that used 15,000 bricks from the original site. Be ready for crowds and live music; that's the point.

For a pint nearby, The Poste House, The Vines and The Irish House are worth seeking out, and for dinner, Hawksmoor Liverpool and The Ivy Liverpool Brasserie suit a special night.

If you only have half a day

Pick a side of the city rather than racing between them. Waterfront people should do the Royal Albert Dock and the Museum of Liverpool, which is free and covers the city's whole story in one building, then finish at the Pier Head. Architecture people should start at Liverpool Cathedral, climb the tower if the wind allows, walk Hope Street to the Metropolitan Cathedral and head to Mathew Street for the Cavern. Both halves are compact enough to do comfortably on foot, and neither needs a car.

If you have more time

Beatles fans often head out of the centre to Strawberry Field, and football fans to Anfield. For a change of century, the National Trust's Speke Hall, Garden and Estate is worth the trip. Families should note Eureka! Science + Discovery too.

Plan it

• Getting there: Liverpool Lime Street is the main station. From there, Royal Albert Dock is a 15 to 20-minute walk through the city centre via Church Street and Liverpool ONE, or a short hop on the Merseyrail loop to James Street, about five minutes' walk from the dock.
• Where to base yourself: Stay near the waterfront or the city centre so everything is walkable. Options include the Hope Street Hotel, handy for the cathedrals; YHA Liverpool Albert Dock on a budget; and the Titanic Hotel at Stanley Dock.
• Best time of year: Liverpool works in any season, since most of this day is indoors or under cover. Choose a clear day if you want to climb the cathedral tower.
• Booking tips: Check the cathedral tower's status on the day, as it closes in high winds. The Royal Albert Dock has 24-hour on-site parking if you're driving.